Wednesday, October 22, 2008

Scalloped Edge Tutorial



Now that all the fashion weeks are over, it became obvious to me that the world needs a scalloped edge tutorial. We can't all have Christopher Kane's but even if you can't construct a garment from scratch, you can can do this to modify vintage pieces or anything you have in your closet that needs to be "Kaned".


The Ingredients:

Cardboard or heavy weight card stock
Scissors (pointy)
Water soluble marking pen of fine point marking pencil
Iron
Sewing Machine
A gin and tonic as a present to yourself when you're finished. (optional/mandatory)


Step 1:

The first part is the least fun because it involves math. Don't drink gin & tonic at this point. You need to make a stencil of the scallops. The most important thing to remember is that each scallop has to be sized so that it fits evenly into the width of the hem, the last thing you want is to end up with a partial scallop. To do this you need to determine where you hem will be. If you want scallops that are 4" in length, you need to a 4 1/4" hem allowance. Then measure the finished hem line. If the measurement of your finished hem is 44" for example, you can have 11 even scallops which are 4" each. Sometimes life is not fair, so you end of with a far less pleasant number like a 45 3/4" hem. Don't let that scare you, there is no reason you can't make each scallop 4 3/8 or any other width, as long as it evenly fits into the size of your finished hem. If you're European you might have better luck with the metric system but I don't go there.

Anyway..... now that you hopefully figured out the size of your scallops the rest is a cake walk. Draw 3 or 4 symmetrical scallops on a piece of cardboard.

I am using a muslin for one of my Fonatine dresses here. In this example I am using scallops that are 4" in length & 5" in width. I also recommend practicing on something beforehand if you are not very confident about being able to sew straight.

Step 2: Fold hem under by 1/4" and press.

Step 3: Turn the garment over to the right side and fold over by 4" (or whatever length your scallops are). Press.

Step 4: Here comes the stencil/template and your marking pen. Place it just at the hemline and start tracing. If you screwed up your scallop measurements, this is the point where you will figure it out. Trace all the scallops all around the hemline.

Step 5: Pin the top part of your hem to your garment and get ready to sew.

Step 6: This is very important.... you MUST use a very small stitch length for this to work. On many machines it would be 1.5. Now sew all around each of your makings. Do not sew beyond each scallop. When you come to the point where 2 scallops meet, turn. Otherwise you will end up with very ugly puckers between each scallop.


Step 7: Now that you are done with the sewing, cut along each scallop leaving about 1/8" allowance. Use your pointy scissors to cut between each scallop making sure you don't cut through your stitches. No need for notches or clipping any where because of your small stitch length. woohoo...

Step 8: Now comes the fun part. Turn garment to the wrong side and turn your scallops out. Use your stencil/template to form each scallop and iron all around until each scallop looks perfect.


Step 9: You're almost finished... Just sew the hem as you normally would and you're done... Congratulations, Drinky time....


This is what it should look like on the right side.

Tada....

Now, Gin & Tonic time.....




PS: I haven't been slacking on my collection at all... many things coming soon.... promises.

39 comments:

*L said...

that looks so cute. i would have never thought to do it that way because im basically retarded.

Chloe's Chic Conception said...

Wow!!! Loooove it!!! I think I might give this a try...

Nicole said...

You're brilliant! Thanks!

sophia brueckner said...

I bought a sailor dress with a scalloped hem from your etsy shop, and I LOVE it! It's one of my favorite dresses. I would love a short skirt with a scalloped hem too...maybe I should try to make one now.

KATLIN said...

This is so cute!!! I loved the Christopher Kane collection especially for those dinosaur like bumps!

Tahda said...

yay. this is so great I'm going to have to figure out what piece of "to be trashed" clothing to try this on. thank you.

Can't wait for new pieces in your collection. I love it all.

i.d. said...

This is cute! I hope you do loads more tutorials. :) Oh, and I've added you to my blogroll. :)

soon lee said...

that is one dress you made and what a cute tutorial!

soon lee said...

that is one - adorable - dress you made (missing word, oops!)

AlicePleasance said...

Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! This is an amazing tutorial and (despite my shitty sewing skills...) I'll surely try it. Plus I can't wait to see the new stuff for the store, just in time for Christmas presents... Yesterday I realized that even if I check it constantly I didn't add your store to my favorites yet...that was crazy! I did it immediately!!!

Imelda Matt said...

I wonder if i could try this on something but not have it looking to la femme...hmmmmm

Another brilliant tutorialxxx

poeta fit, non nascitur said...

arghh. i hope i'll get past my fear of sewing machines to progress. the needle scares the hell out of me.

Pratishtha Durga said...

As always, your tutorials are great, but I lack the most basic sewing skills. So I will do with the Gin and Tonic instead. The fashion weeks are far from over for us. in fact, one is going on right now!

THE HOUSE OF STYLE said...

what a great tutorial and made so easy to follow!designers are enamoured by scallops this season,there was a fair bit on catwalks so thanks for this! thanks for lettin me in on fab sugar!
xx
Marian

Rachel@oneprettything.com said...

GREAT information! I'll be linking to this.

La Clocharde said...

WOW.
That was impressive...
Fabulous work. I want to try and do it...but I really don't think it will work as well as yours. Maybe I should practise more and more.
Seriously, amazing.

Bravo, and cheers (enjoy the gin and tonic, you deserved it, absolutely)

the Yellow Elephant said...

How cute. I'm getting inspired!

- M said...

I love the way you made it look so easy, great result as well!

ZenadiaDesign said...

I think I want to try this! Such cute results too! Thanks for the tutorial. =) LOVE your blog too!

...love Maegan said...

wow. I'm not sure I have the patience for that....but definitely bookmarking for future tutorial.

clairegrenade said...

i have to thank you for posting this, i have something to do this weekend now hehe!


awesome blog, dahhling

jess said...

This is great.I've always wanted to know how to do scallops. It seems simple.

issa said...

an absolutely fantastic tutorial.. and my dear you are definitely one of the cool kids.

blue moss said...

thanks so much for sharing the info.....fabulous!

Stitch Lounge said...

great toot! i'll totally be linking to this from our blog!

Jillian said...

that is so beautiful!

i really would love that

i did not know you were created a collection! that is so exciting my dear! good luck, can't wait to see all the pieces!!

deexdeexdreamer said...

I've saved this in my google reader forever and ever!

I can't wait until your next collection, the fontaine dress has been burned in my brain all summer (those damn scalloped edges...)

Linnéa said...

How adorable!!! I'm going to try that!!!
xoxo

clareassiral said...

i love scallops (on clothes and shell) !i want to try but i cant sew and do not own a sewing machine!

cake. said...

hooray! this is perfect.

Katherine said...

I'm not trying to be rude, but I did this on a skirt and it completely failed. When I turned them out to iron, the scallops looked odd and uneven and it was terribly and obviously puckered. And I swear I followed your directions exactly. I even did practice scallops for about 3 hours. I'm sorry, but I wouldn't suggest anyone try this unless they've been sewing for years and have done this kind of thing before.

litto.moo said...

I think I heard my brain click when I started reading Step 3.
Thankyou thankyou thankyou for this lovely piece of information. I've been wanting scalloped things since the Chloe 09 Collection. Hoooooray =D

holasoylulu said...

Wow!
thank you very much!
I will surely try it!
Big kiss!
Alicia.

Auckland Street Style. said...

Thank you so much for this great tutorial- I have not been sewing for years and I did my best at following the instructions, I did not do everything perfectly, I chose probably the worse skirt to attempt to scallop and it still turned out good enough to wear I think! There is a bit of puckering here an there but hey, it took me an hour and a half. I am proud of my efforts!! I will definitely blog the finished product soon and I hope I will only get better at the scalloping. You rule! xx

Angie said...

such a cute and helpful tutorial! i wish i knew how to sew with a sewing machine

Sheri@childmade.com said...

At first I thought you were making something for home decor. That looks so cute on the bottom of your shirt! Well done! I've posted a link.

Clearly Opinionated said...

Thanks! I just did a scalloped hem for a slip for a three year old girl. It's almost as cute as her!

nurdani said...

this is a great tutorial. i have been having trouble figuring out how to make scallop.
its really a helpful tutorial :)

Lyric said...

Wooo whooo. I don't even drink yet after reading through the tut and visualizing I'm with ya on the drink

Posting a link from my blog to this. Excellent and thank you for sharing.