Now that all the fashion weeks are over, it became obvious to me that the world needs a scalloped edge tutorial. We can't all have Christopher Kane's but even if you can't construct a garment from scratch, you can can do this to modify vintage pieces or anything you have in your closet that needs to be "Kaned".
Wednesday, October 22, 2008
Cardboard or heavy weight card stock
Water soluble marking pen of fine point marking pencil
The first part is the least fun because it involves math. Don't drink gin & tonic at this point. You need to make a stencil of the scallops. The most important thing to remember is that each scallop has to be sized so that it fits evenly into the width of the hem, the last thing you want is to end up with a partial scallop. To do this you need to determine where you hem will be. If you want scallops that are 4" in length, you need to a 4 1/4" hem allowance. Then measure the finished hem line. If the measurement of your finished hem is 44" for example, you can have 11 even scallops which are 4" each. Sometimes life is not fair, so you end of with a far less pleasant number like a 45 3/4" hem. Don't let that scare you, there is no reason you can't make each scallop 4 3/8 or any other width, as long as it evenly fits into the size of your finished hem. If you're European you might have better luck with the metric system but I don't go there.
Anyway..... now that you hopefully figured out the size of your scallops the rest is a cake walk. Draw 3 or 4 symmetrical scallops on a piece of cardboard.
I am using a muslin for one of my Fonatine dresses here. In this example I am using scallops that are 4" in length & 5" in width. I also recommend practicing on something beforehand if you are not very confident about being able to sew straight.
Step 2: Fold hem under by 1/4" and press.
Step 3: Turn the garment over to the right side and fold over by 4" (or whatever length your scallops are). Press.
Step 4: Here comes the stencil/template and your marking pen. Place it just at the hemline and start tracing. If you screwed up your scallop measurements, this is the point where you will figure it out. Trace all the scallops all around the hemline.
Step 6: This is very important.... you MUST use a very small stitch length for this to work. On many machines it would be 1.5. Now sew all around each of your makings. Do not sew beyond each scallop. When you come to the point where 2 scallops meet, turn. Otherwise you will end up with very ugly puckers between each scallop.
Step 7: Now that you are done with the sewing, cut along each scallop leaving about 1/8" allowance. Use your pointy scissors to cut between each scallop making sure you don't cut through your stitches. No need for notches or clipping any where because of your small stitch length. woohoo...
Step 8: Now comes the fun part. Turn garment to the wrong side and turn your scallops out. Use your stencil/template to form each scallop and iron all around until each scallop looks perfect.
Step 9: You're almost finished... Just sew the hem as you normally would and you're done... Congratulations, Drinky time....